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Ponds

1,183 bytes added, 23:31, 25 May 2012

→‎Construction, operations and maintenance

C. Contour ponds: Soil from digging out the pond is used to build the low dikes of the pond. The ideal site has a slight slope (1-2%) so the water supply channel can be constructed slightly above and the discharge channel slightly below the pond water level. Since natural gravity is used to fill and drain the ponds, no pump is needed.

====Barrage ponds====

Barrage ponds are constructed by building a dike across a natural stream. The ponds are therefore like small conservation dams with the advantage that they are easy to construct. However, it is very difficult to control this system: it is difficult to keep wild fish out and a lot of feed added to the pond will be lost because of the current. A properly built barrage pond overflows only under unusual circumstances.

====Size and Shape====

Square and rectangular shaped ponds are easiest to build, but your pond can have a different shape to fit the size and shape of the land. An area of 300 m² is a good size for a family pond, which you can build without the use of machinery. Ponds can be much larger than this, but for family use it is better to have several small ponds rather than one large one. Also, if you have more than one pond you will be able to harvest fish more often.

====Depth====

The water depth is usually 30 cm at the shallow end and 1 metre at thedeep end (figure 6). The pond can be deeper than this if the pond is used as a water reservoir in the dry season. It is important that the water can be completely drained for harvesting.

==Reference manuals, videos, and links==

Winona

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